Kosher Food and Drink

As a longtime member of the Covenant “Landsman” wine club, I have come to look forward to the triannual shipment of these special-issue wines.

The Landsman Syrah arrives in the springtime (there is also a Carneros Pinot Noir in the fall and a Sonoma County Cabernet Franc in the winter), and as with the last several vintages, hails from Sta. Rita Hills, a sub-AVA of the greater Santa Ynez Valley appellation.

Sta. Rita Hills has a distinct microclimate as it sits just one hundred miles north of downtown LA, boasting cool Pacific breezes and a morning fog which keeps the summer climate cool and extends the growing season. The combined maritime influence and sedimentary soils with diatomaceous earth (from fossilized algae) and limestone provide a unique terroir for Syrah.

While Syrah gained great momentum in California in the late 20th century, by 2010, New York Times wine writer Eric Asimov penned a piece titled, “Is There Still Hope for Syrah?” noting the inability of wineries to sell the variety, particularly following the financial downturn of 2008. There was also the toll from the “Sideways Effect,” the quotable movie which spurned Merlot in favor of Pinot Noir, as Syrah plantings were, too, replaced with the famed Pinot.

But the Syrah plantings which survived were those in optimal locations, and the cooler climate of Sta. Rita Hills is just such a spot, allowing the oft-concealed elegant side of Syrah to be revealed.

Covy’s new Syrah again uses fruit from the Robert Rae Vineyard, as in 2021, but I found this expression to be more delicate with greater tension. The RR vineyard sits at the eastern edge of Sta. Rita Hills, 800 ft. above sea level with a north-facing slope.

The ’22 Syrah used native yeast and MLF, with no filtration or fining, and was aged in French oak for 14 mos. Prominent aromas of ripe blackberry, dried herbs, white pepper, cassis, cedar, and earth. Excellent balance of tannins, fruit, acid, and body. Long, lush finish. Really beautiful wine, showing great typicity, structure, and elegance. Well done!

$45, 14.5% ABV, non-mevushal, drink 2026-2031.