Kosher Food and Drink

Many of us familiar with the classic Jewish deli spread look forward to the plate of assorted pickles plopped atop your table. Everyone has their favorite, whether it be the half sour, the full sour, or the pickled green tomato. This super-crunchy, salty, tangy, briny treat is the perfect partner to the rich, fatty cured and smoked meats, and the sweet, piquant coleslaw.

Salt in History

Salt is perhaps the most important ingredient known to man, allowing endless generations of humans to preserve their food safely. Salt is a natural antiseptic and does not allow bacteria to rot food by reducing the water activity within the cells of the food and the bacterium through osmosis.

Salt plays a prominent role in the Torah. “V”Chol korban minchatecha bamelach timlach,” “You shall salt your every meal offering with salt.” (Vayikra 2:13) Rabbi Michael Hoenig explains that during Creation, “Hashem consoled the lower waters by promising them that one day, salt, a byproduct of the lower waters, would be elevated by being used in the offerings in the Beit HaMikdash.”

Even after the advent of refrigeration, salt continues to play a pivotal role in food storage and not only as a flavor enhancer. Pickling and fermentation not only allow us to preserve our foods but provides some of the tastiest items on any table.

The Difference Between Pickling & Fermenting

The basis of pickling relies on submerging foods in an acidic liquid in which bacteria can not survive. The most well known pickled food is, of course, the pickled cucumber, AKA “the pickle.” Pickling also utilizes a heated brine to further inhibit microorganism growth. While preserving the food quickly and creating a delicious, tangy product, pickling does not allow for some of the benefits of fermentation.

Fermentation is an even more ancient method of preservation, and is the name for the metabolic process which converts the sugar in foods to alcohol and acid. Fermentation is an ancient method of preserving food using only salt. The final product carries great benefit as its probiotic character is excellent for your gut flora, immunity, and acts as an anti-inflammatory.

An easy way to know if your purchased “pickles” are pickled or fermented is by looking at the ingredients. If the primary ingredient is vinegar, you’ve got a pickled product. If water and salt are listed without any vinegar, you’re eating a fermented food.

Creating Pickled Tomatoes at Home

While fermentation poses a bit of a learning curve, pickling is beginner-friendly and allows for delicious results in a quick turnaround. Green tomatoes aren’t always so easy to come by, but can be found at local produce stores, upscale grocers such as Wegman’s, and of course in your own vegetable garden. You can always ask your produce store or grocer to order them. As a note, do not confuse tomatillos with green tomatoes.

Equipment

• Deep saucepan
• Half-gallon jar (for this recipe, but smaller sizes can be use. Just adjust the recipe)
• Cutting board
• Sharp knife

Ingredients

• 5-6 medium to large green tomatoes, enough to fill half-gallon jar
• 2 cups white vinegar
• 2 cups filtered water
• 12 garlic cloves, halved
• 2 tbsp. kosher salt
• 2 tsp. black peppercorns
• 2 tsp. mustard seeds
• 1 tsp. pickling spices (optional)

Instructions

1. Slice the tomatoes as you like. I cut in eights. Stack the garlic then the tomatoes into the jar.
2. Add 2 cups vinegar, 2 cups filtered water, kosher salt, peppercorns, mustard seeds, and pickling spices to saucepan.
3. Heat over high temperature until salt dissolves, stirring once or twice, about 1-2 minutes. Allow to cool slightly.
4. Pour the brine over the tomatoes. Let them come to room temperature and store in your refrigerator for at least a week before enjoying.

With thanks to my friend, the master of all things pickled and fermented, Danny Berke. You can buy his incredible book, “Insane in the Brine: The Official Cookbook” here.