Kosher Food and Drink

We paired a lovely holiday lunch with these two equally lovely white wines, the Shirah, Kick On Ranch, Santa Barbara County, Riesling, 2023 and the Or Haganuz, Amuka Blanc, 2023.

As a note, I did not take this ghastly picture, so don’t blame me for the lack of artistry or the tawdry inclusions of the pedestrian Modelo and the “Not Beer.” I most certainly did not consume either. Instead, blame for the picture, coupled with deep gratitude for hosting our lunch, goes to the legendary DJ Balagan and the good Doctor, D², two of the greats of Baltimore.

Interestingly, we had just come from a great kiddush at which the same Shirah Riesling was also opened, but disappointingly, the wine showed fault, with reductive notes on the nose which I characterized as burnt hair. Still drinkable but impossible to really enjoy.

I was curious to taste the bottle I brought to the DJ and doctor’s home to see if it shared this same alarming malady, as earlier tastings I had of the ’23 Riesling were excellent. Breathe a sigh of relief, as I am so happy to report the bad bottle was a one-off (thus far, at least) as the second bottle was once again wonderful. Big aromatic nose of citrus, mineral, ocean air, apricot, some honey, touch of petrol. Zesty acidity and notable minerality. Drink now until 2028 or possibly longer. ($40, 12.4% ABV, non-mevushal)

We also tasted the Or Haganuz, Amuka, Blanc, 2023. I don’t believe I’ve ever written at length about Or Haganuz, founded in 2005 in the northern Galillee at the foot of Mount Meron. Or Haganuz is located in northern Israel where the eponymously named winery resides, a town deeply-rooted in mysticism and spirituality, close to the famous tomb of 2nd century tanna, Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai, in Meron. אוֹר הַגָנוּז also refers to the hidden light which God hid during the Six Days of Creation to be used for the benefit of the righteous in the World to Come.

Clearly, Or Haganuz a winery which takes Judaism and the integral role of wine seriously. In fact, the entire staff is comprised of Sabbath-observant Orthodox Jews. The winery is owned by the community, somewhat in kibbutz-style, made with the well-known Biblical verse of ואהבת לרעך כמוך “Love your neighbor as you love yourself,” in mind. Rabbi Akiva said, “This is a fundamental principle of the Torah,” even more apropos here, considering Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai was Rabbi Akiva’s most prominent disciple.

Or Haganuz is a winery which does not get the attention it deserves and the Amuka Blanc remains painfully undervalued. At about $20 and considering it’s mevushal, it should be on more buy lists.

I was once again delighted to taste the Amuka Blanc (after the lack of an imported 2022 due to shemittah), a perennial favorite, and a Sauvignon Blanc with 15% Chardonnay. Excellent nose of Meyer lemon, lime zest, tart kiwi, gooseberry, yellow cherry, guava. Loads of fruit and a palate awash in fresh acidity. A fun, refreshing drink now wine. ($21, 12.5% ABV, mevushal)

Bear in mind, it is quite worthwhile to cellar a few bottles of the Shirah Riesling, as based on its current character and Shirah Riesling’s track record, this wine will likely develop interestingly. Conversely, the Amuka Blanc is meant to drink in the bloom of its youth.

Let’s hope these writings influence some of those hesitant to drink more white wine to step outside their comfort zone into a new world.