When we hear the word Bordeaux, we immediately think of the world-famous red wines, the deep, earthy, one-of-a-kind wines from which great love songs are penned. But it’s time to explore Bordeaux Blanc wines, white wines made primarily from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and occasionally Muscadelle.
Bordeaux, of course, is the second-largest region in France, with 85% dedicated to red wine production, 10% to dry white, and the remaining 5% to sweet wine, Rose, and sparkling wine. 1956 brought devastating frosts to Bordeaux, the coldest winter in 250 years, and resulted in vineyards uprooting much of their stock and replanting. Prior to 1956, 60% of Bordeaux vineyards produced white grapes destined for mostly sweet wines.
Considering nowadays upwards of 90% of Bordeaux production is for dry red wines, there is ample opportunity to capture the brilliance of Bordeaux Blanc, stylistically at least, elsewhere on the globe. That said, wine – and tastes – are cyclic, and Bordeaux is struggling with declining sales, leading to uprooted vines. Internationally, while red wine sales are lagging, white wine sales are surging (as are those of bubblies, Rose, and low-and-non-alcoholic wines).
Bordeaux Blancs are capable of producing fresh styles with good body and lively fruit, showing quality, complexity, and even ageability.
Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon is a time-tested Bordeaux Blanc, and this past weekend I tasted two current offerings, one brand new to the scene.
Dalton, White of Earth, Elkosh, Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon, 2023
I was so glad to receive this brand new offering from the always-reliable Dalton Winery and its excellent winemaker, Guy Eshel, another wine as part of the Asufa series of Eshel’s “explorations.”
This new white blend is called “White of Earth” (לבן של אדמה), as the wine “is made and aged in earthenware,” says Dalton’s owner, Alex Haruni. Eshel clearly has an affection for earthy white wines. In this case, Eshel “spontaneously” fermented the juice in clay amphorae (as opposed to steel or oak), which are large, egg-shaped vessels, and then aged the wine on the lees. Neutral clay amphorae are porous, allowing for some oxygen exposure, preserving the fruit as in steel, but softening the acidity in the wine, as with oak, and without oak imparted flavors. Terracotta amphorae provide naturally cooler and stable fermentation and utilize an ancient technique of winemaking now growing in popularity due to its natural approach to viniculture. While ancient in style, today’s amphorae are improved on all fronts and are more expensive generally than stainless steel or oak, but offer many benefits.
The White of Earth meshes this classic Bordeaux white blend of racy Sauvignon Blanc and lush Sémillon which uses lees aging (the spent yeast cells used in fermentation) to increase the wine’s complexity and unctuousness while decreasing oxidation potential. It’ll be interesting to give this wine a little time in the cellar. As a note, some good Sémillon can age for many years.
What a delight this wine is. The pungent nose shows lemon curd, Asian pear, guava, and white flowers with a layered palate of controlled acidity and nice heft. Interesting wine. These are the types of wines I hope Dalton, and other Israeli wineries, continue to nurture and produce. Israel can create beautiful white wine with personality and this is another example. Well done.
I prefer this wine slightly cooled. Wines served too cold can mute the delicate aromas. Chill for 20-30 minutes before drinking. Drink now until 2027. Dalton Winery has faced incredible obstacles of near-daily attacks from Hezbollah (may they be wiped from the earth) over the previous year-plus in producing these delicious wines. Support the wineries of Israel!
Labels are rarely given enough thought by wineries, but here – and across the entire Asufa line – we are treated to a lively, appealing work of art. The label is a whimsical modern illustration of a collection of amphorae by Gal Melnick, with creative direction by Natasha Boguslavsky.
Price TBA, 13% ABV, non-mevushal
As a curiosity and to drink following the Dalton Sauv Blanc-Sem, I decided to head down the the cellar and pull another of the same blend, but from a different region, and chose the:
ESSA, Altira, Cape South Coast, 2023
The newest Altira white blend from Josh Rynderman, former wine hand at Four Gates Winery in Santa Cruz, California. We interviewed Josh for the Kosher Wine Podcast a couple months back. For a few years, Josh was also producing wines in California under his label, the aptly named Kos Yeshuos Winery, when I dubbed him (at least I think I did) “The Bi-Hemispheric Winemaker.” Josh is now full-time in ESSA in South Africa and is doing some impressive work.
With his latest Altira (from אל תירא, “Do not be afraid”), Josh has leaned further into some experimentation, utilizing acacia barrel fermentation and sur lie aging. The acacia barrels (66% new, 33% 2nd fill) are 500 liters, and are used for fermentation and then also for aging for 10 months. This wine is again a 50/50 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, which aged sur lie the entire time.
Why Acacia? Rather than the more typical oak, acacia (culled from northern France) allows for more subtle wood influence while adding “spice” and texture to the wine. It is still uncommon in usage, but growing, and used most often for Sauvignon Blanc. “At $830 to $875 per barrel, acacia’s pricing falls between American oak—typically $400 to $550 a barrel—and French oak barrels, which start around $900 and can easily exceed $1,000 a pop.” (Seven Fifty Daily)
The Altira is a delight. On the nose, loads of citrus: tangerine and citrus pith, tropicals: papaya, mango, and stone fruits: nectarine, with white flowers and a saline note. The palate shows great balance of acidity and creamy body. Indeed, if you’re not sure if there is wood aging here, it’s because the acacia is subtle. Acacia is known for lending a distinct citrus/floral kiss. Josh additionally tells me the sur lie aging will be more apparent in about a year’s time. ESSA is also producing a Fumé Blanc, with a different ratio of Sauvignon Blanc:Sémillon and to which French oak was added to the mix. I believe it’s been released but yet to appear in the States. In any case, another great wine and even better value from ESSA. I prefer this wine slightly cool. Wines served too cold can mute the delicate aromas. Chill for 20-30 minutes before drinking. Drink now to 2027.
Let’s Not Forget Sauternes
Sauternes, the wine from the eponymous region in Graves on Bordeaux’s Left Bank, is made from three primary grapes: Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle. Sauternes, of course, is renown for its sweet wines affected by Botrytis cinerea, Latin for “grapes like ashes,” and more familiarly known as “noble rot,” a fungus that is sought after for its properties in drying the grape, concentrating its sugars. The high acid paired with the sugar produce wines capable of aging for decades while evolving. We’ll discuss glorious Sauternes in a future piece.
Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon is a wonderful blend. One can understand why it has retained such popularity. Unfortunately, in our microscopic world of kosher wines, only a handful of examples abound. Here’s a list of some of the current Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon blends on the market:
Available in the U.S.
- Dalton, White of Earth, Elkosh, Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon, 2023
- ESSA, Altira, Cape South Coast, 2023
- Ghito, Uphaz, 2021
- Matar, Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon, 2023
- Château Lacaussade, Saint Martin, Vieilles Vignes,
- Clos des Lunes, Lune D’Argent, 2018
- Domaine de Chevalier 2020
- L’Esprit de Chevalier, Pessac‐Leognan, 2021
- Chateau Malartic Lagraviere Blanc, Pessac Léognan, 2019
- Chateau Pape Clément, Pessac Léognan, Grand Cru, 2020
- Chateau Olivier, Grand Cru Classe, Pessac-Leognan, Blanc, 2020
Available in France
- Château de Rayne Vigneau, Grand Vin Blanc Sec
- Chateau de Rayne Vigneau, ‘Le Sec de Rayne Vigneau’
Available in Israel
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