Perhaps more meaningful and apparent than in most years, the Nine Days and the whole of the Three Weeks this year were difficult and another reminder that the Jewish People remain in its protracted Exile. We continue to pray for the return of our brothers and sisters and safety of all of our Nation. May this past 9th of Av be our final one of mourning.
With the end of the 9 Days comes Shabbos Nachamu, the Shabbat of Consolation, and the ability to again enjoy wine and lift our heavy hearts.
This year, I chose the following wines from different regions in our kosher world, highlighting three disparate styles as well.
- Golan Heights Winery, Yarden, Galilee, Brut, Rosé, 2017
- Viniferia, Castel Luciano, Super Tuscan, 2019
- Herzog, Special Reserve, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2021
The Golan Heights are widely-considered the best region to grow grapes in Israel. The Golan’s elevation and climate allow for superior vineyards. The region sits on volcanic soil, and boasts a cooler climate, with higher relative rainfall, and rocky elevations. This combination of factors allows for high quality grapes that retain higher acidity with decreased ripeness. The vineyards on this volcanic plateau grow from 400 meters to 1200 meters above sea level. The Golan Heights Winery is located in the city of Katzrin, which is in the center of the Golan Heights, and is thought of as the capital of the Golan.
Appearance: Pink-orange and clear, Bubbles are tight and well-focused.
Notes: Tart strawberries, floral, citrus, toast, vanilla. The Brut Rose is a blend of 73% Chardonnay and 27% Pinot Noir.
Palate: Bright and alive: zesty and energetic with bright, lively acid. More red fruit such as raspberry and strawberry, lemon, and toast.
Aging: This is the 2017, so at 7 years old, this wine is reliable and drink now. This bubbly is made in the traditional method, or in the Champagne traditional style, and is meant to improve with age, so lying this down may prove to continue to evolve this wonderful wine. In any case, drink now until 2030 or so.
A fan of all things Italian, and having enjoyed previous iterations of the Viniferia line produced exclusively by and for The Cellar Lakewood, I was eager to try this Viniferia, Castel Luciano, Super Tuscan, 2019.
First, a bit about Super Tuscan. The Super here is a bit of a loose term, used more as ‘extra,” as Super Tuscans are permitted to use international varieties in its wine not native to the region, including well-known Bordeaux varieties. By the 1960s, frustrated Tuscan winemakers began making wines using more than just the classic Sangiovese found in Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, blending Cab, Merlot, Cab Franc, Syrah and others, as well as oak aging techniques to give more body and structure to their wines.
A new term Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) was created to distinguish Super Tuscan from DOCG and DOC wines in 1995.
Ben Weber, president of Select Wine Imports, and man of many connections and talents, finds time somewhere in his schedule to travel to Italy to produce this wine with upstart winemaker, Eli Gauthier, of Cantina Giuliano. The 2019 vintage is a blend of 55% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Syrah, aged 18 months in French oak.
In the glass, dark ruby. Nose of dark fruits such as black cherry, blackberry, and plum, spice, chocolate, soy sauce, soil. Palate shows high big acid with husky tannins, and a lush body. Great structure. Ready to drink but this big wine can certainly cellar and improve. Really enjoyable wine.
Continuing a stellar run, the 2021 vintage of “the Alex,” as it’s affectionately known, is truly special, perhaps my favorite ever, showing depth, structure, and length — a true blockbuster. It’s why I chose to include this relatively “normal” bottle in our featured selections for this past Shabbos Nachamu. This is brilliant wine and can compete with wines in a far more expensive category. It doesn’t hurt that the 2021 vintage was excellent in California, but in any case, this vintage is a real keeper.
Appearance: Deep, dark ruby.
Nose: Dark and ripe black fruit, tobacco, vanilla. On the palate, full-bodied, fresh acid, medium-plus tannins that will need time to integrate, full-bodied, long, remarkable finish.
Aging: This wine is approachable but will likely improve and will certainly hold for many years. Drink 2026-2035
Dr. Kenneth Friedman, WSETIII, is a longtime wine writer, sommelier, and avid historian. He channels his passion for food and wine into creating exploratory tastings, having hosted many international winemakers along the way. Kenny is a kitchen experimenter, hoping to master techniques both ancient and new.
Kenny can be found on Instagram @kosherwinetastings
Kosher Food and Drink 
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